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ASSOCIATION, 



CrODFREY & CRANDALt, Priuteis, Milwaukee. 



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ASSOCIATION. 



^OiVF^JVTION OF ^Sl^- 






Secretary's Report. 

The annual session of the Wisconsirv Wool Manufacturers' Associ- 
ation was holden in Milwaukee, on Wednesday and Thursday, May 
15th and 16th. The annual papers and reports will give full in- 
formation as to what was done, and what it is proposed to do 
through the instrumentality of the organization. 

The primary object of the association, is to so combine the ex- 
perience of all as to act as a unit in all things that can promote the 
prosperity of this branch of industry in Wisconsin. 

A bureau of statistics was organized at our late session, and the 
secretary authorized and requested to keep a full record of all facts 
that are brought within, the notice of the association, which facts 
(except in the aggregate, which will be published,) will be kept as 
confidential, subject only to the inspection of members of the asso- 
ciation. The secretary proposes to keep a full record of all inform- 
ation concerning the Woolen Mills of Wisconsin within his reach — 
a page for each mill; in fact a perfect gazeteer in this especial 
department; and invites the co-operation of all woolen manufacturers 
by furnishing a full description of their mill, and its present state; 
no of setts; and subsequently, any addition made to their works, as 
well as notice of any new mills built in their vicinity. 

The session closed, was of sufficient interest to decide those pres- 
ent to hold a supplementary session in Milwaukee at the same time 
as the state fair. If a general desire is evinced to exhibit, at the 
fair, we are assured of all the room and other facilities to make our 
next session a grand success. 

The secretary will issue a call in due season, but anticipates in 
his report, hoping thereby to receive early notices from the various 
manufacturers of the state, sufficient to guide him somewhat in his 
preliminary preparations. 

He would esteem it a favor if each manufacturer would notify 
him of their intention to attend our next meeting, and whether they 
will exhibit goods, or not. on or before August 1st, 1872. 



All inquiries as to wool, or other topics on which we have inform- 
mation will be sent to members of this association on application to 
the secretary by letter. 

Mr. J. P. Thompson, 224 W. Water st., Milwaukee, has kindly 
volunteered to attend to the labor department, and all communi- 
cations, either from those desiring help, or skilled laborers desiring 
a situation, will receive due attention on application to him or the 
secretary personally. 

All desiring to become active members of this association can do 
so by enclosing $1.00 to the secretary, which entitles him to all 
information in possession of the association. 

We urgently invite the co-operation of every woolen manufacturer 
in Wisconsin and Minnesota. 

W. G. Cutler, 

Secretari/ and Treasurer 

Wis. Wool Mnfrs. Association, 



Business Report. 

Milwaukee, May 15, 1872. 

Tbe Wisconsin Wool Manufacurers' Association opened its an= 
nual meeting at the Newhall House. The following establishments 
were represented : 

Hutchinson, Fay & Ballard, Appleton; Waukesha Woolen Co., 
R, Street; Genesee Woolen Mills, J. Proctor; Beaver Dam Woolen 
Mills, Chandler. Congdon & Co; Burlington Woolen Mills, Perkins 
Bro'. &: Lawton; Berlin Woolen Mills, D. L, Harkness; D. Jones 
A: (vo., Watertown; Escho Brothers, Milwaukee; Cedarburg Woolen 
Mills, Hilyer & Wittenberg; Brickner &: Hcald. Sheboygan Falls. 

The following officers were elected for the year: 

President — Richard Street, Waukesha. Vice-President — J. W. 
Hutchinson, Appleton. Sec. and Treas. — W. G. Cutler, Milwau- 
kee 

Voted: That the secretary be authorized to purchase books for 
the purpose, and keep a full record of all statistics pertaining to 
wool manufacturing in Wisconsin, 



MORNING SESSION. 

Mat Ifi. 1872. 

The following resolves were adopted, as follows: 

1st. Resolution of respect to the memory of Edwin Quick, Esq.. 
Dartford, a deceased member of the association. 

2nd. Thanks to L. iJonnel', Esq , proprietor Newhall House, 
for courtesies extended to the a'^sociation, and to individual n em- 
bers of the same. 

Voted: That when thi<s association arljourn, it be to meet in Sep- 
tember, in Milwaukee, du.ing the week of the exhibition of the 
agricultural fair. 

Voted: That the discussions at the next session l)e opened as 
follows: 

On woolen machinery and recent imj-roveraents, J. P. Thomj son, 
Milwaukee. 

On wool scouring, soaps, scouring materials, kc. G. H. Hrick- 
ner. Sheboygan Falls. 

On carding and spinning, J Harley, Beaver Dam. 

Voted: That the addresses delivered before this association be 
published either through the press of Milwaukee or otherwise as the 

secretary may see fit. 

Adjourned subject to the call of the secretary. 

W. a. CuTLifiR, Sec'y. 




Address of W. G. Cutler, of Milwaukee. 

Mr. Chairman, and gentlemen of the Wisconsin Wool 
Manufacturers' Association: 

I shall not be able 1 fear on the subject now under discussion, 
to state a single fact that will be new to you — I am aware that 
I am addressing experts in a branch of business where 
Ignorance means failure, and as you all seem to be moderate^ 
successful, it is certain you are tolerably well versed in all 
pertaining to the business. 

What I shall aim to do is to state a few of the most im- 
portant truths to know, and so group them as to make a 
picture of the business that you may all look at with a feeling 
of pride aud satisfaction. I never see a professional musician, 
bending over his instrument with a sort of motherly fondness 
for the sounds that bring him bread, without a feeling that he 
has a professional pride and love for his calling, outside any 
sordid consideration; which makes his life a success whether 
he is earning a poor living as a subordinate or fame and 
Avealthas one of the world's favorite soloists. 

I wish to inspire in you something of that enthusiasm 
which shall render your toil a delight and your duty a pleasure, 
assuring you that with this, your success is certain; and that 
without it there can be no success in any business; as the sum of 
the pleasure of life is made up, not of the financial results so 
much as the constant pleasure and satisfaction derived from our 
daily round of work. 

This one phase of the subject is worth more time than I can 
give to the w4iole. I leave you to follow it out each for your- 
self, and come practically and directly to my subject. 

WOOL AND WOOLEN MANUFACTURING. 

Wool, is defined by Webster as soft curled hair which 

frows on sheep and some other animals, and short crisped 
air, as of a negro . 

Strictly speaking,wool is not halr^ more than silk or cotton. 
It has peculiarities of structure that are found combined in no 
other fibre used in the manufacture of textile fabrics. 

Cotton is a fine fibre, flexible, nearly white, 
translucent, and capable of imbibing color. 

Hair is a coarse fibre, of various colors and qualities, straight 
and tubular in structure, resembling wool in so many respects 
that in general talk they are often confounded. Wool is 
generally white, nearly transparent, tubular, serrated, having 
scales like a fish, and knots at regular intervals like cane or 
rush; and wherever these knots occur, the wool takes a new 



departure which gives it the curly appearance peculiar to 
itself, distinguishing it from hair, cotton, hemp, and all other 
fibres used in the manufacture of textile fabrics. 

It seems to be the only substance provided by all bounti- 
ful nature to satisfy all conditions required for beauty and 
utility in clothino; the inhabitants of climates where extremes 
of heat and cold prevail; nothing iias yet been discovered 
thatin any degree can supercede it. Owing to the small tubes 
v\'-hich run laterally through every fibre, all fabrics made from 
it are porous; and in seasons of extreme heat, the perspir- 
ation is conveyed from the body to the open air; and in 
reversed conditions the cool moisture of the air is conveyed by 
the same means to the fevered body. So it seems' to be 
fitted for a sort of supplementary cuticle, with all the re- 
quisites of the true skin as a regulator of heat and moisture 
for the human frame, and an admirable protection ao-ainst 
heat or cold, whether coming from Avithout or within. "^ 

In addition to the peculiarities mentioned: In its natural 
state as taken from the sheep's back, the whole fleece is tilled 
with a yellowish matter, called by novices grease, but known 
among dealers as yolk. It is not grease, but a partial soap 
being largely composed of alkali, and becoming, if suffered to 
lay until the votatile oil has dried out, almost a pure soap of 
itself; hence, as all manufacturers know, old wool scours by 
ordinary processes much easier than ncAv wool just shorn. ' 

It combines all the properties required; cotton is flexible 
and susceptible of color; hair is tubular, and serrated; hemp is 
flexible; silk is susceptible of color; but wool seems to combine 
all;in fact there is not a single property desirable in a fabric for 
human use that is not found in wool. 

Take cotton, flax, silk, hair; each lacks somethino-; wool 
combines all. ° 

In its susceptibility to fast colors of brilliant hue, it stands 
next to silk— colors in wool being more fast, from the fact 
that they set inside the tubes, and are therefore impervious to 
water, and less subject to changes from light and heat, tlian 
colors on cotton which attach to the outside of the fibre. ' 

No buyer of wool can handle it understandingly except with 
a full knowledge of its properties and uses. " I propose to 
sketch to you the process of buying and manufacturino- in an 
intelligent way. ^ 

FIRST — BUYIXG. 

The wool offered for sale is— damp or dry — fine or coarse- 
long or short — light or heavy — weak staple or strono-. 



Each and all of these distinctions are constantly in the mind 
of every intelligent buyer, even when wool is presented in 
merchantable condition. When it is poorly put up, either 
ignorantly or "with intent to deceive," the buyer has to watch 
for foreign substances left in the wool when they should have 
been taken out, or for substances put in — more especially in 
pidled wool, to increase the weight. 

For instance; in fleeces, an unnecessary amount of strings; 
tags and murrain wool, inside of clean washed fleeces; 
unwashed fleeces rolled up inside of washed; heavy and 
buck's fleeces divided in two, in order to pass for merchantable 
wool. Many otlier deceptions ^vill suggest themselves from 
your experience. 

Supposing we have avoided all efforts at fraud, and have 
succeeded in our purchase of stock; our first process toward 
manufacture is 

THE ASSORTING. 

The fleece is opened and laid on the sorting board, sheared 
side down; to the unaccustomed eye it looks a fleece of wool, 
all of one color and quality; but to the sorter, the different 
qualities are as distinct as the difference between wheat, oats 
and grass, as we see when we ride over our prairies. 

He breaks the skirts for one sort, the flank for another, the 
middle of the back and fore-shoulders for another, and when 
the sheep has been crossed too broadly between coarse and 
fine, takes out the coarse piece, which remains for many 
generations in quite fine fleeces in the upper part of the neck, 
running up between the ears, as a humiliating reminder of the 
ill-bred coarse wooled sire or dam from which these 
aristocratic flocks have descended. 

The wool being properly assorted, Ave have it stored in 
separate bins for use. 

After assorting, comes the 

SCOURING. 

I shall not attempt to instruct you as to the best form for 
your scouring box, nor as to the best composition to use in the 
process; but I will remind you that it is the most important 
point in the whole process of manufacturing, as here comes 
your whole test of skill as a purchaser. The shrinkage is 
everything to you. 

It matters not to you what the price of wool may be in 
market; you desire to know what it costs you scoured, ready 
for work; so you ought to uncover your head and pay 
obeisance to the scouring box, as Its results decide whether 




9 

you are to live or to die as a woolen manufacturer. Whether 
your wool shall shrink or lose by scouring ten per cent, more 
or ten per cent. less than you expected, will 
decide whether you are to be successful in 
business, or a bankrupt. So I think we might well pause 
at the scouring box and study it, and understand it well. I 
recommend that you test the shrinkage on every pound scoured, 
and make a record of kind, of whom bought, and shrinkage. 

Further; on the process of scouring; whether you thorough- 
ly cleanse your wool or not, everything depends . Wool poorly 
scoured can be neither perfectly carded, spun, woven, colored, 
or finished; hence an intelligent man must either scour the 
wool, or watch over it. 

The next essential process after drying and runnmg through 
the picker (which separates the fibres one from another into a 
light feathery mass) is 

CARDING. 

The object of carding is to lay the fibres of the wool laterally, 
and to draw them into strands preparatory to drawing and 
twisting them into yarn. In our efforts to do this we find 
various difficulties. The friction generates, or rather develops 
electricity, making the wool stand up all over the machine like 
hair on a frightened cat's back, and fly off in waste in all di- 
rections; further, the knots and serrations in wool cause it to 
felt and knot up in the process; hence it becomes necessary 
to apply our former knowledge of the properties of wool to 
the overcoming of the difficulties named; and we find we must 
saturate the wool with some substance that will allay the elec- 
trical force on the fibre, and allow the fibres to slip easily one 
over the other, till they are in the desired lateral position. 
Limpid oil furnishes all the conditions desired ; so at first we 
take the best olive oil; but study and experience, and a desire 
for economy, lead us to doubt whether olive is the best. 

Olive oil, as well as all vegetable oils, when brought in con- 
junction with water, is dangerous from the liability to sponta- 
neous combustion. Many mills have been destroyed by its 
use. So we substitute lard oil, and whale oil, and other fatty 
matter from animal sources. Then our increasing knowledge 
and economy lead us to doubt whether even lard oil is the best; 
and by experiment we discover that water allays electrical 
excitement as well as oil — leaving nothing for the oil, save to 
lubricate the fibre so it will slip easily into its place in carding 
and spinning. ^So we substitute water, in part for the oil, and 
each by experiment arrives at what he considers the most 
economical mixture for carding. Next comes spinning, which 



10 



is purely mechanical, and is perfectly done or otherwise arf 
the carding may be. Then other processes, also purely me- 
chanical — spooling, dressing, and weaving. As Avell as, in 
mills for fLincy w^ork, the artistic branch of designing patterns. 

After weaving, the cloth is perched, burled, and sent 
to the finisher. He scours out the oil put in on the 
cards, and the sizing put in on the dresser, (to prevent its 
wearing out in process of weaving) using much scientific 
knowledge, and care in the preparation and application of his 
soaps so as not to injure the fabric or color, if the cloth be al- 
ready colored. 

The next important process is 

FULLING . 

The fulling or felting property of wool is peculiar to itself, 
unless we except fur which is nearly the same; it is attributable 
to the scales and knots on the fibre noticed before; and as some 
wools are nearly destitute of these fulling properties, we see 
the necessity of a thorough knowledge of wool in the beginning 
to avoid irreparable mistakes after the cloth is woven. The 
process of fulHng is simply mechanical; the cloth being put 
under alternating pressure and relief, either by pounding or 
the friction of rollers . Each pressure brings the fibres of the 
wool nearer together, and the scales and knots on the wool 
prevent its receding when the pressure or friction is removed: 
so hf continued pounding, or friction, the fibric attains the 
hard, leathery consistency, Ave see in cassimeres, meltons, and 
other cloth particularly fitted for men's wear: 

It is easy to see how ignorance of the fulling properties of 
wool, might lead to disaster in this latter process of manu- 
facture. I pass over the processes of cropping, steaming, 
knapping, shearing, pressing, &c., all purely mechanical, and 
close my sketch with that of 

DYEIXG. 

An art a profession of itself. The coloring is either done 
on the wool before manufacturing, or on the fabric after it is 
Avoven. In the first case, the colors must he made fast, so as 
to resist the scouring process that comes after; hence "dyed 
in the wool" means something reliable. If the fabric itself is 
colored, there in more opportunity for applying cheap fugitive 
colors. Color and its combinations; the properties of vari- 
ous dyeing materials, alone, and in combination; chemistry 
as applied to the art of dyeing; the effect of heat and light on 
colors, (fee, would fill a volume. It has been ably treated at 
this meeting by others; I allude to it only to complete my 
sketch; 



11 



CONCLUSION, 



The simplest fabric manufactured and sold by you, brings 
into play nearly every executive faculty you posess. In a 
piece of common cassimere, — you buy the wool, sort, scour, 
pick, card, spin, spool, dress, weave, perch, scour, full, color, 
nap, shear, tenter, measure, and selj, — each a trade by itself. 

A woolen manufacturer, to be perfect in his profession, should 
be— a merchant, a mechanic, an artist, a scholar, a philanthro- 
phist. Your avocation rises out of the ordinary classification 
of trades into that of the learned professions, if you yourselves 
so choose. No one profession brings into play so many facul- 
ties of the human mind that render men strong and great in 
executive poAver: 

Political economy, in your purchases and sales; Natural 
science, in your water and steam power; 

Mechanics, in your machinery, (almost every motion and 
force applied or applicable to human use, being found in your 
fancy looms.) 

Chemistry,in your dyc-houae and, if you aspire to something 
higher, your moral sense feels constant exhilaration in the fact 
that men, women and children are constantly looking to you 
for bread, and house, and home. 

If you look for the power "behind the throne" that rules this 
country to-day, and has ruled it for the last forty years, you 
will find it not entirely in the press, or pulpit, but behind all, 
in the manufacturers' counting rooms in Boston, New York, 
Philadelphia and Pittsburgh. 

I close with the wish with which I began — that you have 
that enthusiasm that is worthy of your profession. That you 
should constantly aim for higher intellectual growth, as well 
as more critical, practical experience, thereby emancipating 
yourselves from the obstacles that beset those inexperienced in 
your vocation. 

The future centre of woolen and cotton manufacturing must 
of necessity be near the centre of consumption and population. 
You are the pioneers of the western movement. Inspired with 
the true professional enthusiasm, you will make a worthy be- 
ginning for wliat is to come after you. 



12 
Address of Richard Street, of Waukesha, on Color. 



In opening the discussion on color, Mr. Street presented 
the subject in a scientific and practical light. We regret that 
we have not the copy of liis address, but give the points, 
lacking much of the force of his own words. 

He started with the enunciation that the science of dyeing 
wool is no mystery to intelligent persons. In early times it 
was held as a mystery, because the world was ignorant of all 
the primary principles, as were the dyers themselves, being 
each confined to the narrow ground of their own experience. 

Next he showed the actual importance of a scientific 
as well as practical knowledge of the art, quoting from high 
authority to show the necessity of theoretical knowledge of 
the art. 

He then gave a clear analysis of color, showing by a circu- 
lar diagram divided in three parts, how all color is resolvable 
into three primitive colors, viz: blue — red — yellow — and 
between them the secondaries. 

Orange, (red yellow) green, (blue yellow) purple, (blue 
red.) He showed how simple the first principles of color in 
all its combinations are, hence dyers have only to learn the 
properties of their dyeing materials alone and in combination 
Avith each other to bring out any color they desire. 

He further showed the fallac}^ of the prevailing opinion that 
foreign colors are of necessity better than ours; showing 
that a scientific knowledge of the foreign substances in the 
water used, will enable any dyer to apply the proper 
neutralizers, leaving nothing but skill against skill in bringing 
out the most brilliant, or most fast colors. 

The remarks of Mr. Street were of great value to all 
practical manufacterers present, and Avere highly appreciated, 
as his knowledge has all been verified by practical experience. 






13 



Address of Mr. J. W. Hutchinson, of Appleton, on Labor. 



His remarks were entirely extempore and we regret that 
"we cannot give them in his own words. 

His views, as expressed were substantially, that the various 
strikes through the country, their general success, and the 
strength of the various trades unions indicated a great scarcity 
of labor, and it was important for woolen manufacturers to 
meet the question in the best way. He believed that kind- 
ness to the workman was very desirable on the part of those 
employing intelligent men; that it was by far better to recog- 
nize the fact that the workmen were human beings like our- 
selves, and treat them accordingly. That a good way to end 
all this strife between employers and employees in regard to 
the number of hours of labor, was to make it for the interest 
of the workman to do as much work as possible by employing 
him by the job where practicable. 

He stated that the interests of the manufacturer and his 
hands were identical, and the cause of all the strife between 
them arose from the fact that they could not perceive where 
the unity of their interests began. 

His remarks were followed by a spirited discussion on this 
subject by all present. 









14 



STATISTICS 



-OF- 



WI8C0NSIN WOOL MANUFACTURERS' ASSOCIATION 

For 1871 and 1872, Year Ending May 15, 1872. 



MILLS IN WISCONSIN. 



HutchinsoD, Fay &- Ballard, Appleton, 

James Crampton, Attica. 

J. Ruedy <fc Co., Bangor. 

Bacon, Humphrey & Co., Baraboo. 

Island Woolen Mills, Baraboo. 

Chandler, Congdon &- Co., Beaver Dam. 

McFetridge, Burchard ifc Co., Beaver Dam. 

Berlin Woolen Mills, Berlin. 

E. H. Sackett, Black Earth. 

Perkins Bros. & Lawton, Burlington. 

Geo. Dow c^ Sons, Cumfcridge, 

Hilgen ds Wittenberg, Cedarburg. 

A. Patzer, Cedar Creek. 

J. M. Lambert, Easton. 

Geo. W. Carpenter & Sons, Fond du Lac. 

James Proctor, Genesee. 

Fuller, Clark ifc Fuller, Harris ville. 

Payne, Hastings & Co., Janesville. 



15 

F. A. Wheeler <fe Sons, Janesville. 
Jefferson Woolen Mills, Jefferson. 
Franz Blaschek, La Crosse. 
Lancaster Woolen Mills, Lancaster. 
Whitney (fc Stinson, Lawrence. 
Henry Hungerford, Lemonweir. 
Madison Woolen Mills, Madison. 

G. Rudolph, Manitowoc. 
Chapman (fe Hewitt, Menasha, 
Oldham & Jones, Mifflin. 
Monticello Woolen Mills, Montioello. 
L. A. Perkins, Montello. 

Wells vfc Scobie, Neshkora. 

N. W. Bass, Plattville. 

D. J» Pettijohn, Liberty. 

Blake & Co., Racine. 

Hills & Clark, Sheboygan Falls. 

Brickner 6c Heald, Sheboygan Falls. 

H. Greve, Sparta, 

J. Younglove, Spring Lake. 

C. Lawton & Son, Towerville, 

D. Jones & Co., Watertown. 
Paris <fc Ellsworth, Waukau. 
Dayton, Dewey & Co., Waupaca. 
Waukesha Co. Manufacturing Co., Waukesha. 
McCune & Co.,Mayville. 

Beloit Woolen Mills, Beloit. 
Geneva Woolen Mills, Geneva. 
Nye & Bass, Plattville. 
Pease & Son, Fulton. 
Esche Bros., Milwaukee. 
Poysippi Mills, Poysippi. 
Willow Creek Mills, Willow Creek. 
D. D. Roberts, Cambria. 
Jones, Plymouth. 



16 



The summary of statistics presented, showed that the con- 
sumption of wool in this state is nearly 2-5 of the whole clip 
of the state. The clip of 1871 amounting to 4,620,000 lbs. 
No. of Woolen Mills - - - 53 

No. of setts - - - - - 106 

The clip of the state of Wis. for 1871 amounted to - 4,620,000 
Pounds of fleece wool manufactured last year - 1,620,000 

Full capacity, if run constantly - - 2,320,000 




1,,,,,^'JRARY OF CONGRESS 

Wff^ 018 532 536 2 



.) 



